Housekeeping is a casual affair for some and a major event for others. Adopting a pet can help to transform your house into a home, but your new four-legged friend could also turn your home into a mess. With a little thinking ahead, you can have a happy pet and a clean home! Here are some tips for achieving just that:



Clean Pets = Clean House
  • Keep your pets well-groomed. Frequent brushing outdoors will keep indoor shedding to a minimum. If need be, trim excess hair so that dirt and waste won't cling.
  • Keep your pet's nails trimmed, filing down any edges that could shred upholstery.
  • Wipe off your pet's jowls and long, floppy ears after each meal.
  • Placing a large, absorbent place mat under food and water bowls will make for easier clean-up.
  • Utilize dog crates and gates to confine your new dog when home alone until you are comfortable enough to grant him/her unsupervised freedom.
Furniture
  • Place machine-washable slip covers over lightly colored furniture that is more apt to show stains. 
  • Vinyl and leather furniture is easy to clean. Just make sure your pet's nails are trimmed, as they can damage those materials.
  • Place a comfy bed for your pet in a designated room or corner. Cover the bed with a machine-washable throw and train your pet that this is the only piece of furniture they are allowed to frequent.
Floors
  • You can easily wipe away pet waste on sheet linoleum, tile and Pergo® floor surfaces. Use polyurethane to seal hardwood floors in order to prevent lingering urine odor.
  • Try to use washable area rugs instead of wall-to-wall carpeting. If urine soaks into carpet backing, it can be impossible to clean. A carpet care product that targets pet stains can prove indispensable if you have carpeting.
  • Roll up vegetable-dyed oriental rugs until your new pet is fully house-trained. If rugs have fringe, don't roll them back out until your pet is done teething, which can take 8 months or more.
  • Place a washable area rug by the door and keep a towel handy to wipe down your pet's paws and/or body on rainy or muddy days.
Windows
  • Fabric shades, café curtains, and valances are great window treatments for pet-friendly homes.
  • Steer clear of pooling drapery, vertical blinds, tassels, and long cords that can be strangulation hazards, or might bring things crashing down, should your pet try to pull or climb them.
  • Mini-blinds can get bent beyond repair when they block a curious cat or dog's view. Think twice about using these as window treatments.
Walls
  • Washable vinyl-backed wallpaper is easier to clean than paper-backed wallpaper.
  • Use washable semi-gloss paint in areas where your new dog will frequent. This is important for owners of loose-jowled dogs, who are more likely to shake spittle onto the walls.
  • Paint or hang a washable wall covering on the lower half of walls that have antique wallpaper or fabric wall treatments.
When it comes to dogs and cats, familiarity is all about scent. Because of this, introducing your newborn to your pet can start well before you bring the baby home. Before arriving home with your baby, have your spouse or partner bring home a blanket, undershirt, or bootie your baby has worn in the hospital, so that your dog can give it a good sniff. This will give your dog a head's up that there's soon to be another member of the pack.

When you finally bring your baby home, have your spouse or partner carry the infant inside and into another room so that you (the mother) are available to give the dog undivided attention when you walk in the door. Since you've likely been away for a few days, your dog will be seeking affection from you. After 5 to 10 minutes of interactive bonding time with your dog, you're ready to introduce him to your newborn. Offer a toe - never the head - for the dog to inspect and sniff. If your dog isn't interested, don't force him to inspect your baby. There will be plenty of chances to try again later.

A few notes regarding safety:
  • Get routine exams for your pet and keep all vaccinations up to date.
  • Give your pet regular nail trims so they can't scratch the baby.
  • Never allow your pet to get in the crib or the bed with your baby, as they could cause injury or suffocation. 
  • You can use double stick tape around the edges of baby furniture or the changing table to keep pets from jumping up.
  • Use safety gates to keep animals away from the room where your baby sleeps.
  • In the event your newborn gets scratched, wash the area with soap and warm water, and apply an antibiotic ointment. 
  • Notify your pediatrician if you think additional treatment is needed.
Felines have a strong tendency to give off an air of aloofness, but truly shy cats can be all but invisible-- making themselves very scarce by running, and even hiding from their owners. At some time during the day, even the most sociable cats want to be alone and will find a place to seclude themselves for a while. The truly shy ones, on the other hand, may spend most of their time out of sight. A cat that spends most of her time under the bed isn't enjoying life, and may not be getting enough food, water, attention, or exercise.

Some breeds are more reserved than others, and some cats, usually those who have not been around many humans, tend to be people-shy. In some cases, the cat may be frightened of certain types of people - children or men, for example.

Skittish or shy cats may just need a little love and attention. Give a shy cat attention but on her terms. Visit with your cat while she's in her favorite hiding place. Talk to her softly and stroke her lightly on the head. You can even feed her there if she doesn't come out to eat. Give her the space she needs, but reassure her with your tone and actions that you mean no harm. Socializing a shy cat can take weeks, or even months, so be patient.

Cats are naturally nocturnal, but if your cat rarely comes out during the day, don't assume she's not prowling around the house at night. Just because you find her in the morning in the same hiding place that you left her in the night before doesn't mean she spent the whole night there. To help a shy cat feel more secure, try waiting until nightfall. Turn off all the lights and pull the shades. Then, wait and see if she is more willing to venture out in your presence.

Petting, soft talk, and treats can help coax a "scaredy-cat" into relaxing more around humans. If there's something that your cat particularly loves, be it a specific food, a rub behind the ear, or a good brushing; reserve it for occasions of social interaction. 

Don't force the issue of socializing your cat. If you try to force unwanted attention, you may actually make her more reclusive - or risk being scratched or bitten. Let your shy kitty build confidence in her own time. If a normally sociable cat starts acting antisocial or begins to hide a lot, notify your vet in case her shyness is actually a symptom of illness.
Where to Bathe
Some dogs get pretty scared in the bathtub. They jump around, slip and fall, shiver and shake, and are often quite unhappy. In the process, you can get even wetter than the dog does, struggling just to keep him in the tub. Instead of a bath, try giving him a shower-- especially if you have a hand-held shower head. Your dog should feel much more relaxed standing on firm ground, rather than up to his chest in a tub of water. You will probably stay much drier and decrease the risk of hurting your back. Your dog will also get a cleaner rinse.

If you do bathe your dog in the tub, you will need a rubber bath mat or non-slip stick-ons for the bottom. This will prevent him from slipping and will make him feel much more secure.

How to Bathe
First, lay a blanket out on the floor in the room where your dog will be going after his bath; two towels by the shower or tub; his shampoo, conditioner and a washcloth; a brush and comb; and a trash bag.

If your dog's coat is matted, bathing him first will make that situation even worse. If you're unable to de-mat your dog's coat yourself, it's probably a job better suited for a groomer. 

In the tub or in the shower, wash your dog's face with a washcloth instead of pouring lots of water over his face, because his ears shouldn't get too wet inside -- not to mention the fact that he probably won't enjoy getting doused over the head.

Use a good dog shampoo if you can, or you can use baby shampoo or a good herbal shampoo. Either of these should be mild enough to use occasionally for a dog. If your dog has long hair, you might want to use a conditioner. If your pet supplier or veterinarian doesn't have a conditioner made just for dogs, you can find good herbal conditioners that are kind to their skin. Some herbal shampoos and conditioners meant for humans will even prevent lice and fleas on dogs.

After getting him lathered up and clean, you need to rinse very thoroughly. Shampoo residue will make his skin itch. Even with a no-tears shampoo, try to keep it out of his eyes.

How to Dry
When you least expect it, your soaking wet dog is going to give a good thorough shake from head to tail, which can drench you and the whole bathroom. Dry him while he's still in the tub to prevent the water from venturing too far outside of it. You can prevent him from shaking by keeping a towel over his head. You can use one end of the first towel over his head and dry him with the other end, using and second towel to pick him up.

Lay your dog on the blanket you laid out and dry him off as much as possible. His first instinct may be to run and find a good place to shake and roll around, but try to keep him confined to the blanket until he is completely dry, even if that means staying with him or setting up a barrier, such as a doggy gate. 

When to Bathe
Bathing your dog too often is not good for his skin, so keep it down to when company is coming, when he gets into something greasy, when he gets too smelly, or special situations (say, for instance, he gets sprayed by a skunk).
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Teaching Your Cat Tricks
Who says you can't teach a cat tricks? Believe it or not, a cat can learn almost any trick that a dog can learn. It just takes a little time, patience, and conditioning. Today, we'll focus on the most basic commands - sitting and standing. 

What You'll Need
  • Your cat before mealtime
  • A quiet area where the cat is comfortable
  • A table for the cat
  • A specific command (in this case, the words "sit" or "stand"), preceded by your cat's name
  • Your positive signal (a clicker, or an upbeat word such as "yes")
  • The reward (his favorite food or special treats) 

Teaching Your Cat to Sit

1. Gently put the cat on the table at the edge nearest to you, and pet him so he is comfortable.
2. Show your cat the reward, then give the command "Fluffy, sit" and move the reward back and over his head.
3. As he tips his head back to follow the food, he will sit to keep his balance. When he sits, hit the clicker (or use your positive signal) and say "sit, good sit". Immediately give him his treat.
4. Eventually your cat should respond to the command "sit" without you having to dangle food over his head.
5. Once your cat has learned this behavior, you no longer need to place the cat on the table to sit. 

In the beginning, if your cat does not sit on his own, you may gently press down on his hindquarters. Then hit the clicker (or use your positive signal) and say "sit, good sit." Be gentle and patient. If he resists, try again another time. It's always better to have him sit on his own.

Teaching Your Cat to Stand

 Standing, like the dog trick "beg", is one of the simplest tricks you can teach your cat, as they often assume this position naturally. Your goal is to have your cat sit up on his haunches when you give the command "up" while you hold the reward above him.

Training Steps

1. Put your cat on the table at the edge nearest to you, and pet him so he is comfortable.
2. Show him the reward, then give the command "Fluffy, up" while you hold the food directly above him (but not close enough that he can grab it).
3. When he stands on his hind legs or haunches and reaches for the food, hit the clicker (or use your positive signal) and say "up, good up." Immediately give him his treat.
4. Eventually your cat should respond to the command "up" without you having to hold the food above him.
5. Once your cat has learned this behavior, you no longer need to place the cat on a table to sit up. 

If your cat stands on his back legs instead of sitting on his haunches, slowly move the food back over his head. To keep from tipping over, he will sit down on his haunches. It helps if he starts out in a sitting position. Remember to use your positive signal when he is in the desired position.


Animal Body Language
Do you ever wish you knew what your pet was thinking? In the on-going human quest to decipher animal body language, here is a quick guide to a few of the most common expressions: 

Behavior: Your cat gives you a fixed stare with flattened ears, flailing tail, fur standing on end or skin rippling beneath your hand

Translation: Your cat is probably a bit over stimulated and getting ready to bite or scratch.

Behavior: Your dog's tail is wagging to the right, or in a circular motion. 

Translation: Your dog is exhibiting a positive behavior that shows he is happy and excited.

Behavior: Your dog (or cat) pricks her ears up or forward.

Translation: Your pet is displaying interest and curiosity.

Behavior: Your dog, mouth closed, is looking intently at a person or object.

Translation: Your dog is very focused on something at the moment.

Behavior: Your dog is focused on you but blinking his eyes instead of simply staring. 

Translation: Your dog is showing a sign of friendly contact. If his tongue is hanging out, he's genuinely happy.
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